Exploring Equestrian Fetishism: Hermès Spring/Summer 2026 Collection
Last fall, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the artistic director of Hermès, masterfully explored the rich tapestry of equestrian culture through her collection that highlighted themes of assertion, layered codes, and control. Transitioning seamlessly from the Fall 2025 show to the Spring 2026 presentation, she continued this journey in Paris, presenting a collection that can only be defined as a master class in combining leather, suede, and innovative quilted fabrics. The collection is not only a reflection of aesthetic beauty but also an embodiment of desire and power, reminiscent of the language of riding and sporting culture.
The runway kicked off with a striking ensemble that set the tone for the entire collection. Olive-brown, buttery-leather Bermuda shorts were elegantly paired with a reinvented leather bra top resembling a harness, along with a contrasting leather and canvas coat. Vanhee-Cybulski aims to push boundaries, and this new offering distinguishes itself through unabashed sexiness and refined craftsmanship, effortlessly forward-looking while respecting tradition. Aspects of the collection like leather vests and lace-tied bra tops recurred, amplifying sensuality but through an artistic lens that whispers sophistication rather than shouting it.
An interesting nod to the ’90s emerged in the form of silk scarves styled as chokers that added a youthful twist, countering any possible notions of being overly formal. Moreover, micro-quilted leather wrap skirts and sleek, ankle-length leather skirts with center slits emerged as standout pieces. The bold designs often hugged the body closely—executed flawlessly, these items promise to be among the most fashionable festival looks for the upcoming spring season.
Outerwear played a pivotal role in the presentation, with one standout knee-length jacket combining cream leather detailing alongside mesmerizing red printed silk quilting. This combination not only captured the eye but also exuded a sense of luxury. Among the collection’s highlights were the coveted suede Birkins, further emphasizing a theme that resonates with both sophistication and sensuality. This collection is a modern embodiment of the classic Hermès aesthetic—one that Helmut Newton famously admired—a triumph that celebrates feminine dominance through an intricate dance of power and desire.
In her recent turns, Vanhee-Cybulski emphasizes an understanding of tradition while evolving the narrative to include a broader interpretation of femininity and strength. Her treatment of materials and shapes pays homage to the deep-rooted craftsmanship that Hermès is famed for. By intertwining new perspectives with established traditions, she showcases her unique vision, steering the renowned fashion house toward innovation while retaining its essential heritage.
As we move closer to the warm seasons, the Hermès Spring/Summer 2026 collection not only represents a significant fashion statement but offers a profound commentary on the evolution of style and feminine empowerment. For a deeper dive into the collection, check out Hermès Official Site. Each piece invites wearers to rethink and celebrate femininity, making clear that this collection isn’t just about clothing—it’s about embracing the deeper layers of identity and expression.
