A Comprehensive Guide to Underpainting: The Makeup Technique Transforming Beauty Routines

Underpainting has quietly existed in the makeup world for years, primarily as a behind-the-scenes technique at runway shows. However, it wasn’t until celebrity makeup artist Mary Phillips unveiled the process in late 2025 that underpainting evolved into a full-blown beauty phenomenon. Known for her ability to create "lit-from-within" skin on stars like Hailey Bieber and Kim Kardashian, Phillips propelled underpainting into the limelight, making it a must-know technique for anyone interested in achieving that effortlessly sculpted look.

Understanding Underpainting

So, what exactly is underpainting? This revolutionary makeup method involves applying contour and highlight products before the foundation, rather than layering them on top. Phillips learned of the technique through Kevin Aucoin’s makeup books, focusing on how natural light interacts with the skin, particularly under high-definition cameras. "I began experimenting on myself and then extended it to clients, focusing on strategically placing warmth, brightness, and contour before applying foundation," explains Phillips to W Magazine. By creating a dimensional base underneath the foundation, underpainting ensures a seamless and lifted appearance, making it indispensable for high-profile events.

For further insight into Phillips’s journey, check out her profile on W Magazine.

Tailoring Underpainting for Your Skin Type

Different skin types require specific approaches to maximize the effectiveness of underpainting. For dry skin, Phillips suggests opting for creamier, more emollient formulations. "Keep everything sheer to maintain a fresh and plump look," she advises. Conversely, individuals with oily or combination skin should use cream-to-powder or matte creams to prevent excess shine while still defining facial structure. For those with mature skin, Phillips recommends minimal product application and strategic placement. "Underpainting is particularly valuable here, as it allows for dimension and brightness without the heaviness of multiple layers," she mentions.

Explore various skincare products suitable for your skin type on platforms like Sephora.

The Essential Steps to Underpainting

To achieve the coveted look, starting with proper skin prep is crucial. Once your skin is prepped, the next step involves applying a color corrector as needed to neutralize any darkness, especially under the eyes. Following that, use a contour product to gently carve out the natural contours of your face. Phillips advises, "Begin at the tail of your brow and brush upwards toward the temple for a lifted effect." This method extends around the forehead hairline, emphasizing a sculpted appearance. Depending on the desired outcome, contour can be placed either below or slightly above the highest point of your cheekbones.

Highlighting comes next, where light should fall on the face naturally. Tap highlighter between the eyebrows, down the nose, around the nostrils, and under the eyes. To create an uplifting effect, Phillips recommends applying highlighter just below the cheek contour and at the base of the bottom lip.

For in-depth product recommendations, visit beauty blogs like Into The Gloss.

Final Touches: Applying Foundation

After you’ve expertly underpainted, it’s time to seal the deal with foundation. Phillips succinctly puts it: "Underpainting lays the bones of the face, and foundation is the skin that goes on top." It’s vital that the foundation is lightweight—aim for sheer to medium coverage. Full-coverage products can negate your underpainting work. For the application, Phillips suggests dispensing foundation on the back of your hand, dipping a fluffy brush into the mixture, and then blending it onto your face using small, upward strokes. Start with the highlighted areas first, then blend out the contour areas, resulting in a beautifully balanced, radiant complexion.

For excellent foundation options, review lists on sites like Allure.

Make Underpainting Your Signature Look

As with any makeup technique, practice makes perfect. With Mary Phillips’s insightful guidance on underpainting, you can transform your beauty routine into a work of art. This technique allows your skin to appear naturally dimensional and blurred, offering a sculpted effect without the heavy makeup appearance. Whether you’re prepping for a special occasion or looking to elevate your everyday makeup game, underpainting is a game-changer.

Dive deeper into the world of beauty with tips from experts by browsing resources like Makeup.com.

Adopting underpainting into your routine could very well be the enhancement your makeup application has been lacking. With a little practice, you’ll discover the power of makeup techniques like this, allowing your unique features to shine through effortlessly. Ultimately, make underpainting a non-negotiable part of your regimen and watch your beauty routine transform dramatically!