Helmut Newton and Pomellato: A Bold Celebration of Jewelry, Autonomy, and Femininity in the ’80s

The captivating photographs by Helmut Newton for Pomellato’s ad campaigns from 1982 to 1984 depict a unique kind of woman, striking with her nonchalant style. Picture her in a dimly lit bar, exuding confidence, often adorned in sunglasses even indoors, and perhaps indulging in a chain of smoke. Most notably, it’s the gleaming gold jewelry on her wrist that draws your attention, contrasting vividly with the neon backdrop. This woman is not waiting; she is claiming her space. These ads redefine the notion of femininity in jewelry marketing, where women engage with the pieces as expressions of autonomy rather than mere adornment.

Beginning September 18, these audacious images come back to life at the Pomellato, Helmut Newton & the ’80s exhibition at Omotesando Crossing Park in Tokyo. Originally designed for glossy magazine spreads, the full-page advertisements are a stunning testament to the boldness of the 1980s. Instead of longing stares at diamonds, Newton’s women lounge, smirk, and command attention. This exhibition invites audiences to witness how alive these images still feel, revealing a current affinity for self-expression in accessories.

Founded in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, Pomellato quickly made a name for itself in Milan’s jewelry scene, favoring daring designs and vibrant gemstones over traditional diamond-centric collections. By the time Newton entered the brand’s narrative, Pomellato was on the brink of a visual revolution. The collaboration emphasized not just ornamentation, but rather the power of self-identity. Newton’s images celebrated the Pomellato woman’s spirit—assertive, unapologetic, and breaking free from outdated conventions.

The exhibition serves as a time capsule capturing the essence of Milan in the 1980s—a time when fashion was a local dialect, rich with cultural nuances. Attendees can expect to see iconic pieces, like the Gourmette chain with its voluptuous curves, the geometrically striking Gate-link necklace, and the fabric-like Tessute necklace that asserts strength while maintaining a sensuous flow. Pieces like these were intended for visibility—offering a glimpse into a world steeped in romance, nightlife, and lively conversation.

Pomellato’s CEO, Sabina Belli, aptly notes the revolutionary nature of Newton’s portrayal of the Pomellato woman. “What made this collaboration revolutionary was how Newton portrayed the Pomellato woman with such beautiful, challenging non-conformity.” Through his lens, jewelry transformed into a statement of individuality—a way for women to express a facet of their identity. This acknowledgement also allows us to reconsider jewelry as more than just an accessory, but as a powerful artifact that reflects personal narrative and aspiration.

Though the exhibition might evoke nostalgia for the bold ’80s, its impact is undeniably contemporary. Imagine trading the smoky ambiance for vibrant LED lights, swapping half-empty ashtrays for artsy cocktails, and replacing sidelong glances with social media selfies; the women captured in Newton’s photos could easily step into a modern-day Tokyo night. Here, jewelry transcends aesthetic value in Newton’s narrative—becoming an embodiment of power and self-expression.

To explore these remarkable images, interested visitors should note that the exhibition is free but available by appointment only. As attendees stand before the larger-than-life portraits, they are met with the gaze of Newton’s models, embodying a mixture of aloofness and amusement. This experience offers a transformative understanding, highlighting that jewelry transcends mere luxury—it’s a reflection of self-identity and intent. In a world increasingly defined by individual expression, Newton and Pomellato capture an important truth: jewelry is not merely a gift; it’s a mirror, revealing who you are and who you aim to become.

For further details on the exhibition, consider visiting Pomellato’s official website to learn more about the event and the innovative jewelry pieces showcased. Also, dive deeper into Helmut Newton’s iconic photography by accessing resources at the Helmut Newton Foundation, offering insights into his revolutionary aesthetic and impact on fashion photography.

This homage to audacity, identity, and the celebration of femininity transcends mere nostalgia, inviting both admiration for the past and a reflection on contemporary empowerment through fashion and jewelry. The Pomellato, Helmut Newton & the ’80s exhibition serves as an essential exploration of what it means to wear jewelry and the profound significance it holds in embodying one’s personal narrative.