
O Velho Eurico
Best Lisbon restaurant for: hanging with the locals
Price range: $$
Where? Central, near São Jorge Castle
Walking into O Velho Eurico used to feel like stumbling upon a local secret, but as with all brilliant things, this restaurant has since been catapulted to many must-visit lists and lines form outside the doors way ahead of opening each night. The good news: it's totally worth the wait.
The cozy space, hidden in a corner on the way to São Jorge Castle, is filled to the brim every night with locals and travelers keen to enjoy a twist on classic Portuguese dishes. And while it may be incredibly difficult to get a reservation (we’re talking weeks or months in advance), the quality of food hasn’t changed. The menu has some mainstays, such as the can’t-miss bacalhau à brás (a classic dish made dish made from shreds of salted cod, onions, and thinly chopped fried potatoes) and polvo (octopus cooked so perfectly you won’t be able to stop thinking about it afterwards), but dishes are updated or changed relatively recently. On my most recent visit, I was particularly taken with the impressively tender beef sandwich and the orange squid; a perfect blend of salt, sweet, and acid.
The space was recently closed for a number of months to allow for a renovation, which means a slightly bigger kitchen for the busy chefs (and yes, there are stools allowing guests to watch over). Best enjoyed with a group of friends so you can order at least one of everything, settle in for the evening, and soak up the fun, relaxed atmosphere alongside the young chefs and owners, who will no doubt join you in a shot of their homemade spirit at some point during your evening. Embrace the chaos: it’s infectious.
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