Surfing Adventures in the Caribbean: A 1970s Journey

In 1970, I embarked on an unforgettable adventure to the Caribbean, aiming to explore the pristine waves and warm waters that many had raved about. Having already surfed extensively along the Mexican coastline, I felt equipped for this journey, especially as I would be showing my girlfriend, Jan, the beauty of foreign travels. With a budget mindset, our trip was set to be filled with excitement, local culture, and, of course, some thrilling surf.

Why the Dominican Republic?

My destination of choice was the Dominican Republic, which shares the island of Hispaniola with Haiti. With its rich Spanish heritage and an affordable travel reputation, it seemed like the perfect spot for a budget-conscious surfer like me. Flying from Los Angeles to New York and then to Santo Domingo, I researched local surf spots, hoping to snag a board once we arrived. Despite the hurdles of international travel in the 1970s, the enticing prospect of discovering the Dominican Republic’s beaches kept my spirits high.

Arrival and First Impressions

Arriving in Santo Domingo was eye-opening. The airport gave off an unrefined vibe, lacking the formalities I was used to. Almost immediately, I sensed a difference in the Dominican culture; the locals showcased a blend of European and Indigenous heritage that was distinct from the Mexicans I had encountered. After a minor struggle skirting taxi hustlers, we managed to catch a bus, but I quickly realized how much poorer the Dominican Republic was compared to Mexico. However, little did we know that our soon-to-unfold adventure would take an unexpected turn.

Meeting José and Exploring Santo Domingo

After settling into a room at a local’s house, we began our exploration of Santo Domingo with a young guide named José. As we took in the city’s colonial architecture, local cuisine, and Jan’s excited chatter inspired by the vibrant lifestyle around us, José mentioned the possibilities of surfing in Puerto Plata. Intrigued, we decided to make the journey to the north coast once we had fully absorbed Santo Domingo’s sights and sounds.

Lunch was a relaxing affair, filled with rice, beans, and local beers, but the undercurrent of unease lingered. The atmosphere felt heightened, especially in light of the military presence, which was visible in various parts of the city. While we enjoyed José’s company and insights, it became evident that we were likely experiencing a different side of travel than what we had expected.

An Unexpected Encounter

That evening, our visit took a dark turn. While strolling through Santiago, I was confronted by armed locals who felt the need to exert authority over us. With a gun pressed against my stomach, I tried to maintain my composure while Jan remained uncomfortably silent behind me. The intimidation was palpable, and I grappled with the realization that we were far from safe. Thankfully, this encounter ended without physical harm, but it was an undeniable wake-up call to the realities of the region.

The Quest for Waves in Puerto Plata

The next day, after our harrowing experience in Santiago, we opted to leave the Dominican Republic for Puerto Plata, a location reputed for its surf spots. Though the town itself was beautiful, the lack of available boards made our surfing ambitions thwarted. Nonetheless, the vibrancy of the area and the welcoming locals provided some reprieve. We reveled in the local cuisines while keeping an eye out for anticipated waves, hoping to stumble upon a rental or possibly meet friendly locals who surfed.

Crossing into Haiti

Ultimately, we transitioned from the Dominican Republic to Haiti, which marked another chapter in our journey. The language barrier held no fears thanks to Jan’s knowledge of French, and the environment felt markedly different. Traveling to Cap-Haitien, we were greeted with lush landscapes and cultural vibrancy that reminded me of Hawaii. As we explored the area in search of surf, we stumbled upon vibrant voodoo parades, immersing ourselves in the local culture and camaraderie.

Although we never did find surfboards or rideable waves, our experience in Haiti was enriched with local delicacies and unforgettable memories. The flavors of fried plantains transformed our culinary interests, and the music and dance of Haiti left a lasting impact on both Jan and me.

This journey to the Caribbean remains a cherished memory, one filled with cultural experiences, natural beauty, and unexpected encounters. From navigating the bustling streets of Santo Domingo to euphoric festivities in Cap-Haitien, traveling in the 1970s was as much about the adventures found outside of the waves as it was about surfing them. Would I do it again? Absolutely—but perhaps I would choose a more predictable path with Jan next time.

For more on traveling to surf and cultural exploration, check out resources on budget travel tips or Caribbean surf spots like Surfline, Caribbean Surf, and Epic Surf Adventures.